Burn Up the Road: Five Days in Istanbul, Turkey

Strategically located between the Black Sea to the northeast, and the Sea of Marmara to the west, which opens up into the wider Mediterranean, Istanbul is a thriving urban center with a rich history dating back to the Roman imperial era.

Istanbul, known as Constantinople before 1453, served as the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire until the collapse of the Western Roman Empire in 476. After the fall of Rome, Constantinople continued to thrive as the capital of the Byzantine Empire for the next 1,000 years until being conquered by the Ottomans in 1453. After 1453, Constantinople was renamed Istanbul, and served as the capital of the Ottoman Empire for the next 465 years until its collapse in 1918.

Since 1923, Istanbul no longer serves as the center of a great empire, but Istanbul continues to its tradition as a thriving commercial and cultural center.

During my five-day tour of this legendary city, I toured the great bazaars, including the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar; walked the historic grounds where the hippodrome once stood, which hosted chariot races in front of 100,000 spectators during the Byzantine era; looked in admiration at the beautifully decorated mosques; and stood in awe at the massive historic and architectural wonder, the Hagia Sofia.

Preparing to land in Istanbul, the city's strategic importance throughout its history is apparent. The land mass to the bottom right is Asia, the land mass to the top left is Europe.

Istanbul is situated along the Bosphorus, a straight connecting the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara. The Bosphorus also separates the Asian and European continents.

Istanbul's strategic location was recognized since ancient times. Not only did it serve as a "gateway" between Europe and Asia, but great empires that controlled Istanbul (Constantinople before 1453) were in a position to control trade between societies of Asia to the east and the entire Mediterranean basin to the west.

Istanbul

Today, Istanbul is home to over 13 million people making it Turkey's largest city, and one of the largest cities in Europe. Istanbul remains one of the most important commercial centers in Eurasia, and produces approximately 27 percent of Turkey's GDP. Istanbul's historic area features a unique blend of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture, and is partially a UNESCO world heritage site.

Istanbul viewed from the Galata Tower. The body of water in the center is the Golden Horn, an inlet and natural harbor that ships have used for docking and shelter for thousands of years. To the far left, the magnificent Hagia Sofia can be seen.

Overlooking the Bosphorus, a strait that links the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara.

The Sea of Marmara, which leads into the Aegean Sea and Mediterranean. The southern edge of the city flanks the Sea of Marmara, and hundreds of cargo ships can be seen for miles along the coast, serving as reminder how important Istanbul is for world commerce today.

Bazaars and Market Streets/Squares

Istanbul is not only a tourist mecca, but the city is also a shopper's paradise. Miles of narrow, winding, cobblestone corridors line Istanbul's historic district, with retailers selling items of every description. Eager retailers will wait outside their shops and beckon potential customers to take a look at their merchandise; sometimes, they will follow you briefly as you walk away, trying to get a response.

Such an environment can be both exciting and exhausting. When one just wants to get to a particular destination, the constant beckoning and following can become a nuisance. But, if a seller has items of interest, great bargains can be had, as most are eager to haggle on price. Many sellers will give three pricing options: USD (American dollars), Euro, and Lira, the Turkish currency. Always negotiate in Lira, or insist on a price in Lira. As of this writing, USD is worth nearly double Lira, and Euro is worth almost three times the Lira. Bargaining in these strong foreign currencies will likely result in paying a much higher price for an item(s), even if it seems like a good price in USD or Euro. Rarely should shoppers pay the initial asking price. Most sellers expect to haggle; use it to advantage.

One of the many winding cobblestone corridors in Istanbul. Much of Istanbul remains a "walking city," where people get around on foot.

Another cobblestone avenue lined with shops and retailers selling their merchandise on the sidewalk. To the right, a motor scooter can be seen. While most people move around on foot, occasionally people on motor scooters transporting merchandise between retailers passed by.

Inside the Grand Bazaar. Constructed in 1455, the Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest covered bazaars in the world. The Grand Bazaar is a maze of over 3,000 shops selling items of every description.

Among the variety of merchandise, beautiful lamp displays could be found throughout the Grand Bazaar.

Constructed in 1660, the Spice Bazaar, is the second largest covered bazaar, only outdone by the Grand Bazaar. As its name implies, spices of every kind can be purchased to satisfy any palette.

We explored the large square near the Spice Bazaar, adjacent to the Golden Horn. A wide variety of comfort foods including breads, roasted corn and chestnuts, mussels, and deserts can be found there. In the background, the New Mosque with its minarets can be seen.

Fishing boats equipped with kitchens were a common site along the Golden Horn. Hungry customers could walk up to the boat and order fresh seafood.

Historic Sites of Istanbul

Istanbul's history dates back to classical times. A historian's paradise, in many ways Istanbul is a living museum.The ancient and medieval sites located throughout the city stands a visual reminder of Istanbul's role as the center of great empires in world history. Istanbul stands as an excellent representation of change and continuity over many centuries.

Overlooking the remains of the ancient Hippodrome, an ancient horse racing and chariot racing arena capable of holding 100,000 spectators. The remaining columns in this image mark the center of the race track. The modern park walkways follow the ground plan and dimensions of the ancient Hippodrome.

The Obelisk of Thutmose III, a Pharaoh of ancient Egypt, originally erected at the Temple of Karnak in Luxor about 1490 BC. Roman emperor Theodosius the Great brought the obelisk to the Hippodrome in 390 AD, and still stands in its original spot in the Hippodrome today.

One side of the marble pedestal supporting the obelisk of Thutmose III, depicting horse races in the Hippodrome.

Another side of the marble pedestal of the Obelisk of Thutmose III, depicting in vivid detail the process of raising the obelisk in its current place in the Hippodrome.

Inside the Basilica Cistern, a subterranean cistern constructed in the 6th century by order of Byzantine emperor, Justinian I. Capable of holding 80,000 cubic meters of water, the cistern provided fresh water the surrounding area of the city.

The "Peacock-Eyed" column. One of three unique columns found in the cistern.

One of the Medusa's Head columns. Medusa was a women of ancient Greek mythology. Legend says that Medusa had a curse placed upon her by a jealous goddess because of her beauty. The angry goddess turned her hair to snakes, and made her eyes turn anyone who looked upon her into stone. Historians do not know exactly where the Medusa's Head bases came from, but were likely removed from a building during the late Roman Empire and used for a column base. As to why builders used them, or placed them they way they did, remains a mystery.

The second Medusa's Head column.

Another great shot of the colonnaded corridors of the Basilica Cistern.

Historic Sites Continued: The Hagia Sofia

Constructed in 537 by order of the ambitious Byzantine emperor, Justinian I, the Hagia Sofia remains the principle historic site of Istanbul; the age, splendor, and scale of the Hagia Sofia stands as a awe-inspiring example of the architectural and engineering genius of the Greco-Roman age.

The Hagia Sofia served as the center of Eastern Orthodox Christianity from 537 to 1453. Following its capture by the Ottomans in 1453, the Hagia Sofia was converted into a mosque, and architects added the four minarets that still remain today. Today, the Hagia Sofia serves as a museum and is often considered one the great world wonders.

Outside the magnificent Hagia Sofia.

Another shot of the imposing Hagia Sofia as I rounded around the park to get in line for the entrance.

The grand entrance of the Hagia Sofia. The walls are of solid marble, and the vaulted ceilings are covered with mosaics.

Facing the main entrance into the Hagia Sofia, or the "Imperial Gate," the mosaic above depicts Jesus Christ in the center, Emperor Justinian I on the right, who ordered the construction of the Hagia Sofia in 537, and Empress Theodora on the left, Justinian I's trusted adviser and one of the most influential women in history.

As I walked through the Imperial Gate, I saw this great opportunity to capture this image. The architects of the Hagia Sofia designed the building with many windows strategically placed so that the light would give the impression that the dome was "floating" on light. Including many windows also had the advantage of making overall structure lighter, and therefore, more stable.

Entering the center of the Hagia Sofia. It was at this point that the sheer scale of the cathedral/mosque came into perspective.

Inside the main dome.

Approaching the old Christian alter. The cathedral ceiling is so high, I was unable to get a shot of the floor, rising all the way up to the ceiling.

Looking across the dome from the second level balconies. People can be seen on the opposite side on the second level, giving an idea of the scale of the Hagia Sofia dome.

These exquisitely decorated columns are the result of combined architectural styles of the ancient Greeks, with Corinthian capitals; ingenuity of the ancient Romans, with the arches capable of supporting tremendous weight; and Byzantine art, with sculpted design and mosaic tiles.

The large marble circle in the center marks the spot where Byzantine emperors were coronated by the Patriarch of the Eastern Orthodox Church, placing the imperial crown upon his head, legitimating his rule among Byzantine subjects and in the eyes of God.

The Hagia Sofia at night, seen from the park.

Mosques of the Ottoman Empire

After Constantinople was captured by the Ottomans in 1453, the city was renamed Istanbul, and made the capital of the Ottoman Empire. For next four centuries, Ottoman rulers engaged in ambitious building projects of their own, especially large, beautiful mosques that tested the limits of human ingenuity and artistic beauty. The blending of Ottoman architectural styles with existing Greco-Roman and Byzantine styles resulted in one of the most unique urban landscapes in the world.

In the courtyard of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, commonly known as the Blue Mosque, built from 1609 to 1616.

Historically, followers of the Islamic faith were always concerned that by depicting human figures in art, it could distract people from worshiping God. Avoiding the depiction of human figures, especially holy figures, resulted in the development of unique, beautiful Islamic style art. Islamic art, on magnificent display in this mosque, focuses on complex patterns, colors, and Arabic calligraphy.