Weekend Excursion to the Painted Canyon; Western Turkmenistan

The painted canyon, situated in northwestern Turkmenistan, is the breath-taking result of millions of years of geological forces at work. Traveling to the painted canyon was a fun and fascinating experience. 

We took a 45 minute flight from Ashgabat to the city of Turkmenbashi, situated along the Caspian Sea. From there, our driver and guide picked us up. First, we stopped at the local bazaar in town to buy food and water for the overnight trip, then we began our four and a half hour drive through the desert to reach the painted canyon.

We made our way along the desert road. Our driver had to constantly dodge huge ruts and holes in the road, as well as navigate around whole sections of completely decayed road. In some cases, the road was completely buried under sand dunes.

Along the way, we stopped at a pilgrimage were Turkmen rest during their travels, saw wild camels and horses, and camped overnight at the painted canyon. I looked on in wonder at the massive painted canyon, and enjoyed chicken shashlik and hot tea. As a bonus, I had the chance to view the milky way galaxy in the early morning hours before sunrise, made possible by the fact there was no source of light in any direction.

Painted canyon region relative to Turkmenistan.

Painted canyon region relative to Central Asia.

The road ahead. Most the road was in terrible condition. It was not uncommon for large segments of the road to be completely deteriorated. In other areas, nature reclaimed the road.

We stopped at this little dukan (store) along the way for a refreshment of Coca-Cola and bread.

Some cows crossing the road near a bus stop. As to who would typically use that bus stop is a mystery to me. Other than the dukan, there is nothing or no one as far as the eye can see in any direction.

After about 2 1/2 hours of driving will still had a long way to go. Left of center, our route ahead can be seen disappearing into the horizon.

We stopped briefly at the traveler's pilgrimage. For centuries, this spot has been used by traveling Turkmens. The site features a mosque, cooking areas, and sleeping areas.

Turkmen women preparing food for travelers. In the foreground, travelers set up their carpets to dine and sleep.

Turkmen hospitality has been recorded through the ages. I got to experience that once again at the pilgrimage. Shortly after we sat down upon a carpet, locals began to bring us food, setting it before us and encouraging us to eat. Food included Çörek (Chore-ek), the traditional Turkmen bread, soup with lamb meat, another plate of meat, and camel's milk.

A couple of old Soviet-era vehicles. The white sedan to the right is a Lada, but I was not able to determine what the make of the sedan to the left.

Me hanging out at the pilgrimage with a full belly thanks to the hospitable Turkmen strangers at the pilgrimage.

The farther away from any towns we got, the more frequently we saw packs of wild camels roaming around the desert. This particular group of wild camels decided to block the road, obliging us to go around them.

On several occasions, we saw wild horses on the way to the canyon and back.

After four and a half hours of driving, we finally reached the paint canyon region, and set up our camp for the night on top of a plateau.

After we went around collecting scarce wood around our campsite, our guide began boiling water for tea, and preparing the evening's meal of tomato chicken shashlik.

My wife took this candid picture of me gazing at the painted canyon for the first time. I was amazed at the scope and beauty of the canyon.

The painted canyon.

As I walked along the plataue to get different views of the canyon, I noticed hundreds of these seashell fossils laying around, indicating that at some point in the very distant past, this region was under water.

The expanse of the painted canyon.

Enjoying the sunset with my wife and friends. With them in the foreground, it gives perspective of the vastness of the place.

After the chance to view the milky way galaxy at night, we woke early to watch the sunrise over the painted canyon.

When my wife and I woke up and exited our tent, we were a little stunned to see this alabai (Central Asian shepherd dog) hanging out in our camp. As we broke camp and walked around for last minute pictures, the alabai followed us around. We gave him as much water as he could drink, and left some snacks for him to eat before we left the painted canyon for good.