Weekend Trip to Mary, Turkmenistan and Ancient Merv

I had the opportunity to visit with a Turkmen family in Mary, Turkmenistan. For a weekend, I was treated to Turkmen hospitality, renown in Central Asia, and briefly experienced traditional Turkmen living. My hosts took me to the local bazaar, where I immersed myself in a traditional marketplace setting.

Before boarding a plane back to Ashgabat, I toured the ancient city ruins of Merv, once an important political and economic center along the famous Silk Roads.

My hosts, a local Turkmen family, live in the town of Murgab, just outside the city of Mary (Mer-ree). After being picked up from the airport, I was invited for tea at the home of my host's long-time family friend. From there, I arrived at my host's home, where a lavish feast awaited. With the exception of cabinetry to store items, traditional Turkmen homes do not have furniture. Instead colorful rugs with a variety of intricate designs cover the floors of every room of the house. The feast was laid out upon a special mat covering the center of the rugs. Upon the serving mat, bowls of fresh fruit, pastry trays, fresh baked bread, chicken shashlyk, soup, and an assortment of beverages awaited. Myself and fellow guests took our place upon the rugs and enjoyed the food until we could stuff ourselves no further.

After an hour of enjoying the cool evening breeze on the patio, also lined with Turkmen rugs, myself and the other guests returned to the dinning area. Upon entering, there was no indication that dinner was served there, or that it was a dinning area at all. Our hosts removed the food, and rolled up the serving mat. In its place, was a series of sleeping mats upon the rugs for us to turn in for the night.

Flying into Mary, Turkmenistan. Mary is situated on an oasis, supporting urban development since ancient times to the present. In the far background, the abrupt dividing line between oasis and desert is clearly visible.

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan: The First Month

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, lies in an oasis north of the Kopet Dag Mountains, and at the edge of the Kara Kum Desert.

Originally established as a village outpost by the Russian army in 1881, Ashgabat is a relatively young city for the region. The city was founded along important caravan routs, and on the Transcaspian railway, allowing Ashgabat to grow into a major city.

The city served as the capital of Turkmenistan, USSR from 1924 until 1990. Following the country's independence in 1991, Ashgabat became the capital of independent Turkmenistan.

Ashgabat lies just north of the Kopet Dag Mountains, and at the southern edge of the Kara Kum Desert.

Relative location of Ashgabat.

Environment in Ashgabat

Turkmenistan is mostly desert, with very little moisture. The air is very dry, and often dusty.

During the long summer months, temperatures average 95 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit.  Under such temperatures, walking outside for just 15 minutes will result in the feeling of exhaustion and dehydration. Because of this, locals mostly go outside during the late afternoon and evening hours, when the temperatures become much more mild.

Ashgabat sits at the edge of the Karakum Desert, one of the largest and harshest deserts in the world. The flat terrain in the foreground is in a natural state. The pine trees in the immediate background are not native to the environment. In the background, the Kopet Dag Mountains tower above the landscape. The air is colored light tan from the dust. (If you look closely, I can be seen walking home from a long day at work)