First Day-Hike in Turkmenistan

After waiting for the simmering 110º F summer and early fall temperatures to subside, and finding time between a busy work schedule and travel, I finally had my first opportunity to go hiking in Turkmenistan.

I quickly learned that with rare exception, if one wants to go hiking in Turkmenistan, they simply make their own trails. A small group of fellow expats and myself drove out of the city of Ashgabat, and toward the Kopet Dag Mountains, searching for a suitable spot to park the cars and begin hiking. After driving for about one hour, we pulled off the side of the road, found a small path made years of grazing sheep, and began our hike. Before long, we ventured off the sheep trails and began exploring whatever areas look interesting, making our own routes as we progressed.

Our "route" that we made up as we went along including some rock-scrambling down into a valley below. Our hike also including a fare amount of climbing as well.

Köw Ata Underground Lake, Turkmenistan

Köw Ata underground lake is located at the foot of a mountain, about  two hours Northwest of Ashgabat. Located approximately 235 ft underground, and filled with high concentrations of sulfur, salts and other minerals, Köw Ata is the closest equivalent to a thermal spa in Turkmenistan. The average water temperature is 95º F. Köw Ata underground lake is also a protected home for the largest known colony of bats in Central Asia.

After paying the "American price" of 40 Manat, or approximately $14 (the price for Turkmen citizens is 3 Manat - $1.05), I descended into the cave, making my way to the underground lake. As I approached the lake, the temperature began to increase from the hot vapors. The air began to take on a sharp sulfuric smell. At the first the smell was a bit off-putting, giving the impression of filth, but I got used to it relatively quick. At first, the water appeared murky due to the high concentration of dissolved minerals. But once up close, the water is very clean.

The stairs led directly into the water, with a rock ledge about 4 feet underwater for the first 6 feet out. Then suddenly, the rock ledge ends with a 90º drop. Being in a dimly lit cave and having the bottom go out under my feet in a thermal lake was a little daunting, but I got used to it quickly.

Swimming 200+ feet underground is a little strange at first, it is a feeling that is difficult to describe in words. But is was an experience worth setting aside initial inhibitions.

The entrance into the underground lake, complete with Soviet-era sculptures.

The Carpet Museum; Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

The Turkmen people have a long, rich history of weaving some of the finest quality, beautiful carpets in the world. The Carpet Museum, located in the heart of Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, displays some of Turkmenistan's finest carpets over the span of centuries.The carpets are housed in a relatively new building, embellished with a marble facade, large gold entrance doors, and marble floors, with plain white walls to maintain focus on the carpets on display. Overall, the museum is well laid out and ideally lit to highlight the beautiful carpets and other woven fabrics associated with traditional Turkmen culture.The museum is also the central location that foreigners wishing to take carpet out Turkmenistan must report to obtain official papers and to pay assessed taxes.

The carpet museum admission is much more expensive for foreigners, especially for Americans. As of this writing, admission was 36 Manat per person ($12.67). The museum also charges a fee per picture taken. When we arrived, we were told the fee per picture was 12 Manat ($4.22). Later, another staff told us that no pictures were allowed, which we protested, and then were given re-permission to take pictures. Another staff member told us 5 Manat. Shortly thereafter, the original staff member that collect our admission charged the original quoted price of 12 Manat per picture.

Traditionally, the Turkmen people were nomadic. Carpets were an efficient, transportable way to furnish their movable homes called yurts, such as the model in the background. The Turkmens also used their distinctive carpet weaving techniques to make other items of use, such as saddle covers, bags, and other useful items.

In and Around Selçuk, Şirince, Pamukkale, and Hierapolis; Turkey

Natural wonders and ancient ruins are among the primary motivators to visit the Turkish peninsula. However, the inhabited towns that lay near them are also worth visiting to catch a glimpse of everyday life.

Towns visited included Selçuk, just outside the ancient ruins of Ephesus; Şirince, a Greek enclave continuously settled since the 15th century; and Pamukkale, located just outside the ancient ruins of Hieropolis.

Getting to and from these destinations required more planning, and in some cases, the ability to let go of some of our inhibitions then what we were otherwise used to. After a one night layover in Istanbul, we took a domestic flight to Izmir, which was much cheaper than flying directly there from out of country, even with a hotel charge for one night.

Selçuk

Once we landed in Izmir, travel became more challenging. The staff around the Izmir airport were generally unfriendly and did not want to help. It is important to note that the Izmir airport is crawling with tour agents who are very eager to help travelers for a hefty fee. They are very pushy, and will say just about anything to get travelers in the bus and committed with payment. We avoided them, and fortunately, a local traveler helped us translate with a coach bus driver where we needed to go.

After riding the coach bus to the outer region of Izmir, we had to hurry to the "bus stop," which was nothing more than other other people standing along the street in front of a market. Luckily, before the passing of time would allow doubt to sink in, a small white minibus with a handmade sign labeled "Selçuk" rolled up beeping his horn. The driver, without asking anything, just grabbed our luggage, threw in the back of the minibus, and shewed us into the minibus.

For 6 Turkish Lira a person ($3), we rode the jam-packed minibus for about one hour to the bus station in downtown Selçuk. At the bus station, one can find taxi services, local minibuses, and coach buses for longer distance travel in Turkey.

A Traditional Turkish breakfast. It included an assortment of cheeses, hard-boiled eggs, breads, olives, honey with butter, and pastry.