Day-Trip to the Nader Shah Fortress, Turkmenistan

The Nader Shah Fortress ruins is situated about two hours east of Ashgabat. The fortress was constructed during the reign of Nadir Shah (1736-1747 AD), founder of the Afsharid Dynasty, and leader of a vast but brief Persian empire in Central Asia.

The fortress complex is in good condition; most of the walls, guard towers, and surrounding moat are intact. Within the walls, the outlines of the road system can still be seen. At the center of the fortress stands the ruins of the palace complex. About 500 feet from the fortress stands two ruined structures, one with half its dome roof still intact. It is not known what purpose they served.

Nader Shah is often referred to as the "second Alexander the Great," or the "Napoleon of Persia," due to his stunning successes on the battlefield. The massive Nader Shah fortress complex stands as a testament to his legacy, and Persian military might from days past.

The fortress is designed in a square pattern. This is one of the four walls which we entered the fortress.

A view of the eastern wall, facing south, from on top of one of the guard towers.

Ancient Ruins of Abiwert and Abandon Village of Murche; Turkmenistan, Central Asia

Since returning to Turkmenistan following summer break, I visited two ancient ruins during two back-to-back weekends. For the first trip, I visited the ancient ruins of Abiwert, located about 2 hours east of Ashgabat. Like the ruins of Merv, the site of Abiwert is well preserved. Many of the structures still have walls standing, and the fortress, with its defensive moat, is still clearly visible. The ancient town's grid-pattern development is also evident.

I took a second trip to the abandon village of Murche, about 2 hours west of Ashgabat, situated along the foothills of the Kopet Dag Mountains. Turkmens occupied the village until 1960. Following the completion of a canal a few kilometers away, the people abandon the village for a new site closer to the canal, also called Murche. Later in the day, I also had the good fortune of being taken to the Mausoleum of Zengi Baba, dating from the 13th or 14th century. Zengi Baba was the patron of cattle breeders, dating back to the pre-Islamic Zoroastrian era. While there, several Turkmen showed us inside, and allowed us to witness one of their prayer sessions. A few kilometers away, I made on last stop to the village of Sunche, to tour an ancient fort and water-mill.

Ruins of Abiwert

A view along the highway leading to the Abiwert ruins.

The ruins of Abiwert. The place has a sort of strange calm about it, especially when thinking that thousands of people once called this place home.