Ancient Ruins of Abiwert and Abandon Village of Murche; Turkmenistan, Central Asia

Since returning to Turkmenistan following summer break, I visited two ancient ruins during two back-to-back weekends. For the first trip, I visited the ancient ruins of Abiwert, located about 2 hours east of Ashgabat. Like the ruins of Merv, the site of Abiwert is well preserved. Many of the structures still have walls standing, and the fortress, with its defensive moat, is still clearly visible. The ancient town's grid-pattern development is also evident.

I took a second trip to the abandon village of Murche, about 2 hours west of Ashgabat, situated along the foothills of the Kopet Dag Mountains. Turkmens occupied the village until 1960. Following the completion of a canal a few kilometers away, the people abandon the village for a new site closer to the canal, also called Murche. Later in the day, I also had the good fortune of being taken to the Mausoleum of Zengi Baba, dating from the 13th or 14th century. Zengi Baba was the patron of cattle breeders, dating back to the pre-Islamic Zoroastrian era. While there, several Turkmen showed us inside, and allowed us to witness one of their prayer sessions. A few kilometers away, I made on last stop to the village of Sunche, to tour an ancient fort and water-mill.

Ruins of Abiwert

A view along the highway leading to the Abiwert ruins.

The ruins of Abiwert. The place has a sort of strange calm about it, especially when thinking that thousands of people once called this place home.

Weekend Excursion to the Painted Canyon; Western Turkmenistan

The painted canyon, situated in northwestern Turkmenistan, is the breath-taking result of millions of years of geological forces at work. Traveling to the painted canyon was a fun and fascinating experience. 

We took a 45 minute flight from Ashgabat to the city of Turkmenbashi, situated along the Caspian Sea. From there, our driver and guide picked us up. First, we stopped at the local bazaar in town to buy food and water for the overnight trip, then we began our four and a half hour drive through the desert to reach the painted canyon.

We made our way along the desert road. Our driver had to constantly dodge huge ruts and holes in the road, as well as navigate around whole sections of completely decayed road. In some cases, the road was completely buried under sand dunes.

Along the way, we stopped at a pilgrimage were Turkmen rest during their travels, saw wild camels and horses, and camped overnight at the painted canyon. I looked on in wonder at the massive painted canyon, and enjoyed chicken shashlik and hot tea. As a bonus, I had the chance to view the milky way galaxy in the early morning hours before sunrise, made possible by the fact there was no source of light in any direction.

Painted canyon region relative to Turkmenistan.

Painted canyon region relative to Central Asia.

The road ahead. Most the road was in terrible condition. It was not uncommon for large segments of the road to be completely deteriorated. In other areas, nature reclaimed the road.

Seit Djemaletdin Medieval Mosque Ruins (Annau Mosque); Anau, Turkmenistan

During the Timurid Dynasty (15th–16th centuries A.D.), governor-general Abu Kasim Baber ordered the construction of the Seit Djemaletdin Mosque between 1446 and 1457, within the remains of an ancient Parthian fortress.

Situated about 9 miles (15km) south east of modern Ashgabat, the mosque was part of a large religious complex, which included a funeral hall, a cloister for Sufi monks, and a madrasa (religious school).

The mosque was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1948. However, the ruins are still considered a functioning mosque. Turkmens from the surrounding area continue to visit the mosque in significant numbers to pray, and perform ceremonies unique to Turkmen Muslims.

The Seit Djemaletdin Mosque is situated on top of an ancient Parthian era fortress. The site and the surrounding area has been occupied for the last 7,000 years. As I walked along the paths, numerous pottery shards left over the ages were found.

The remains of the two remaining pillars that used to support a large dome above where the people are standing. Much of the structure had still been intact until a devastating earthquake occurred in 1948. In spite of the extensive damage, Turkmens still visit the ruined mosque to pray and have feasts at the bottom of the hill behind it.