Burn Up the Road: Week Two: Charleston, SC

In 1670, eight loyal friends of King Charles II of England, known as the Lords Proprietors, established the settlement of Charles Town (renamed Charleston) on the west bank of the Ashley River, just northwest of the present city. Due to the site's ideal position within the Charleston Harbor, which opens into the Atlantic Ocean, Charles Town began to grow into a important port town, and moved to its current site on the peninsula in 1680. In spite of frequent attacks from rival empires such as Spain and France, as well as from pirates and Native Americans, Charleston continued its growth as a major commercial and cultural center up to the American Civil War.

I focused on a tour of the historic French Quarter of downtown Charleston. In the early 1970s, downtown Charleston underwent a long period of restoration and revival. Those efforts have paid off. Charleston's historic French Quarter rivals that of Savannah, Georgia, in historic authenticity and attractiveness. Many homes and buildings survive intact from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and several streets are still paved with original cobblestone.

Following Meeting Street, nicknamed "Museum Mile," I worked my way down the peninsula to the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers. I visited City Market, established in 1807 and still in operation today; the Powder Magazine, erected in 1713 and the oldest surviving building in South Carolina; the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon, constructed in 1767 with a varied and controversial past; and The Battery (White Point Gardens), which offered great views of Charleston Harbor, and Fort Sumter. Before leaving Charleston, I stopped at Martha Lou's Kitchen to try authentic soul food. The food was delicious and I had the chance to meet the owner, Martha Lou, who has been cooking soul food for 30 years.

A church building constructed in 1848 in the neoclassical style.

Historic commercial buildings along Meeting Street.

The Market Hall building, constructed in 1841, is an excellent example of the neoclassical style. Underneath the portico is a tunnel entrance that leads to City Market, established in 1807. The market spanned six blocks and merchants sold fruits, vegetables, meats, and fish. Today the market continues, where local vendors sells their crafts, artwork, pastries, artisan breads, and other items.

Inside one of the six City Market buildings.

Constructed in 1713, this powder magazine is the oldest surviving building in South Carolina. Colonists used the powder magazine to store their firearms, ammunition and gun powder for safe keeping in case of an attack. Possible assailants included Native American tribes in the region, pirates, as well as rival French, and Spanish military expeditions.

The Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon, constructed in 1767. By chance this building has a varied and controversial past. This building served as a customs house, mercantile exchange, military prison for both British and Americans during the American Revolution, the site where the South Carolina legislature ratified the U.S. Constitution in 1790, and a brothel.

A view of historic commercial buildings lining Broad Street, from the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon.

Another beautiful church building constructed in the neoclassical style. Two signers of the U.S. Constitution, Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, and John Rutledge are buried in the church's adjoining cemetery.

Mansions line E. Bay Street along the Cooper River. Once owned by wealthy merchants, they used the first floor as their office for business, and the remaining floors as their residence.

The Calhoun Mansion, built in the Italianate style in 1876.

White Point Garden, otherwise known as the the Battery. Civil War era naval artillery and large siege mortars line the outer edges of the park. In the foreground is a prominent statue of William Moultrie, a South Carolinian who served as a general during the American Revolution, designed of the South Carolina state flag, and served as governor of South Carolina after the revolution.

Fort Moultrie, located near the confluence of the Cooper and Ashley Rivers. American revolutionaries used the fort to defend Charleston against British naval attacks during the American Revolution.

Fort Sumter in the distance. On December 26, 1860, Union forces occupied Fort Sumter. Union forces remained there for several months in spite of repeated warnings from South Carolina to surrender it. On April 12, 1861, Confederate forces opened fire on Fort Sumter, beginning the American Civil War that would continue until Confederate defeat in 1865.