Monday, October 7, 2013

Overnight Excursion to the Fire Crater, a.k.a "Hell's Gate," Karakum Desert, Turkmenistan

Situated approximately 260 km north of Ashgabat in the heart of the Karakum Desert is the fire crater, also known as "hell's gate."

The crater resulted from a cave-in during a natural gas drilling operation in 1971. At the time, those at the site believed that they could burn off the poisonous gas in a few days by lighting it on fire. Instead, they exposed and set fire to a huge natural gas reservoir, turning the site into a massive, raging fire pit that has been burning for over 40 years.

Today, few signs remain suggesting that the fire crater was a drilling site. Instead, one sees a massive fire pit in the middle of a vast, open desert. A few fellow tourists, the raging flames, and the intense waves of heat between high cold winds seem to be the only life for as far as the eye can see. A few dozen feet beyond the fire crater, nothing is visible in the pitch black of night, but occasionally, packs of desert foxes can be heard calling out to each other. I can definitely say that the fire crater earns its nickname, "Hell's Gate," and is one of the strangest sites I have visited to date.

Soon after leaving the city limits of Ashgabat, the highway narrowed, and traffic dissipated as we drove into the Karakum Desert. Occasionally, we passed small villages, and domestic animals such as these cows crossing the highway was not uncommon.



As we drove deeper into the desert, wild camels could be seen foraging along the sides of the highway and off into the distance.
Approaching the site, we had to exit the highway and drive about 20 minutes along an unimproved trail into the heart of the desert, far away from any human settlement or improvements.
Stretching several hundred feet in diameter and and several hundred feet deep, the fire crater is an impressive site. The gas fumes emitted from the crater permeated the air. The source of each flame burned blue in color, and every few seconds, onlookers would get blasted with waves of intense heat.
A hill not far from the crater offered an excellent aerial view of the crater.
"Hell's Gate" is an appropriate nickname. In this image, gas fumes and waves of heat can be seen rising up, mixing with the dust and sand in the air. Off to the left, an onlooker can be seen, giving perspective on the size of "Hell's Gate."
"Hell's Gate"
Michelle snapped an image of me taking pictures of the crater.
Making my way back to camp in the pitch black of night. All the particles of sand that rushed constantly through the air can be seen.
Our guides preparing the night's meal, including chicken shashlik, and lula (ground lamb) kabobs.

Before leaving, I took an early morning walk around the surrounding desert. With the exception of a few camp sites, there is no indication of human existence as far as the eye can see in all directions.
 I could not resist climbing up the side of a sand dune for the first time.


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