Six Days in Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Located along the eastern edge of the Arabian peninsula, Dubai is a city of international importance. The city receives much media attention and hype; my impression of Dubai during my six-day stay is that the international hype is well deserved. From its ultra-modern skyline with all the amenities of the 21st century in the newer sections, to older, more traditional districts, Dubai truly is an international city.

Dubai and the surrounding region.

Dubai in relation to the wider Middle East.

Look and Feel of Dubai

One aspect of Dubai that stood out to me almost immediately was the large number of expatriates throughout the city. Emiratis make up a small minority of Dubai's population. The vast majority of shops and restaurants are staffed by Filipinos, Malaysians, and Indians, the later making up approximately 51% of Dubai's population. There is also a large population of people from Europe and the United States. Walking through the streets and malls, and dining at restaurants, I heard a bewildering number of languages being spoken. It was not uncommon to see expatriates in their distinctive national dress. Together, these demographic characteristics gave Dubai a very cosmopolitan feel.

In many ways, Dubai truly is a 21st century city. While the earliest recorded settlement of the city dates from the late 1700s, and traditional sections of the city are still full of life, many other sections have been developed within the last 10-15 years. The variety of modern architecture is astounding. Walking among the varied skyscrapers, I was given the impression that architects are encouraged to test the limits of imagination and design.

The first thing that struck me about Dubai was its diverse and ultra-modern skyline.

Another good example of Dubai's ultra-modern skyline. One gets the impression that there is no limit to the whims of architects when its comes to design. For example, the twisted skyscraper to the left.

The marina district. Higher-end restaurants and cafes line both sides of the river bank. The skyline is dominated by luxury high-rise condos, hotels, and office buildings.

The Burj Khalifa at dusk. The Burj Khalifa is currently the world's tallest building. When looking down upon the skyline from its observation deck, one realizes just how much the Burj Khalifa dwarfs surrounding skyscrapers.

Getting Around Dubai

Getting around Dubai was a little daunting at first, but once I got oriented, I found that getting around Dubai is fairly easy. Dubai has an ample taxis service on both land and water, and the rates are reasonable when using marked RTA taxis. Dubai also has an efficient metro train service connecting all the major points.

Three important considerations can make getting around by auto taxi cheaper and more efficient. First, always make sure the taxi driver runs the meter when commuting to your destination, and make sure the fare is clearly visible at all times. UAE law states that if a taxi driver does not run the meter or make the display visible during commute, the passenger is not obligated to pay a fare. This will help reduce the possibility being overcharged by the taxi driver. Second, and closely related to the first point, is to avoid taxis with no meter. Some cars will have a taxi sign, but it will be affixed to a regular vehicle with no meter. These "taxi" drivers will often charge exorbitant, arbitrary  rates. For example, I unwittingly got into one of these "taxis" and noticed no meter. I asked about the absence of a meter and the rate to my destination. The driver quoted 80 Duram ($21), which I refused to pay, citing UAE law, and demanded to be dropped off immediately. Shortly after, I took a marked taxi with a meter to my destination for 20 Duram ($5.50) with tip. Third, Dubai does have unmarked but metered luxury taxis, the Lexus being the most common. These luxury taxis usually can be found right outside hotels or major attractions. These taxes are metered, but charge a much higher rate for the luxury and convenience of not having to go the roadside and flag down a regular taxi.

Dubai's metro train system is easy to use and very efficient.  Most metro stations are located along major roads, and have bus and taxi stops adjacent to them. The metro stations are consistently clean and well maintained throughout the city. The metro trains themselves are likewise very clean and well maintained. I never had to wait more than five minutes for a train to my destination. Each station and train have clearly labeled maps of the metro system, making it an easy task to learn the system.

Commuters can get around by water using the modern water taxis run by the regional transit authority, or in the older parts of Dubai, commuters can ride the abras - the traditional water taxis. I did not ride on the modern water taxis, but I did have the chance to ride the abras down Dubai Creek, which only cost 1 Duram (27 cents).

A number of abras can be seen ferrying passengers up and down Dubai Creek. The abras is the traditional water taxi in Dubai.

I had a great view of Dubai Creek while riding an abras. The traditional skyline can be seen in the background. The mosque minarets are the tallest and most prominent structures in the traditional part of Dubai.

Dubai's metro train system is very efficient; I never waited more than 5 minutes for a train at any station throughout the city. The metro stations are very clean and clearly labeled throughout, which greatly reduced the learning curve for tourists like myself.

Many Emiratis wear traditional Middle Eastern dress, which features a white tunic that comes down near the ankle. Most escalators have safety warning signs like the one on the left of this image.

Shopping

Dubai is a shopper's paradise. There are many large-scale malls throughout Dubai. A few noteworthy ones are the Dubai Mall, adjacent to the Burje Kalifa, and the Mall of the Emirates.

The Dubai Mall is comprised of four levels, and is currently the largest mall in the world. Most name-brand stores can be found there. Each level is dominated by a certain category of consumer goods. For example, the fourth level is mostly electronics. The mall features two food courts, and many American chain-restaurants. Price ranges for consumer goods and dinning range from modest to highly exclusive. The Dubai Mall features modern amenities throughout. For example, touch-screen directories are located throughout the mall. Each level also provides taxi services to shoppers that wish to get to their next mall destination without having to walk its long corridors.

The Dubai Mall features more than just shopping and dinning. The mall is home to the longest aquarium wall, which is part of a large aquarium stocked with many species of fish including sharks and stingrays. For a fee, shoppers can put on wetsuits and take a diving tour in the aquarium. Shoppers and tourists also have the opportunity to go ice skating at the indoor ice rink.

The Dubai Mall is also adjacent to the Burj Kalifa, currently the world's tallest man-made structure. The mall provides access to the fountain area, a large artificial pond that features a spectacular "dancing fountain" show every half-hour in the evening, located in between the mall and the Burj Kalifa.

The Mall of the Emirates is similar to the Dubai Mall, but built to a slightly smaller scale. The Mall of the Emirates still features a bewildering number of name brand stores from around the globe.

Getting to the Dubai Mall from the metro station is quite a trek. Fortunately, the above ground tunnel linking the metro to the Dubai Mall has a series of seven motorized walkways. In the image above taken from the Burj Kalifa, I started from the left red arrow, and made my way to the red arrow on the right.

The Dubai Mall waterfall. This is one of several waterfalls in the Dubai Mall.

The Dubai Mall has the longest aquarium wall in the world. The aquarium is stocked with a variety of marine life, including sting rays and sharks. For a fee, shoppers can go scuba-diving in the aquarium.

Another shot of the aquarium wall, with the night constellation on the mall's ceiling.

One of Dubai Mall's many atriums. Later, the lit part of the floor raised, and was used a cat-walk for a designer fashion show.

String musicians performing for shoppers in one of Dubai Mall's atriums.

A view of the Dubai Mall fountain show, with the Burj Kalifa in the background. The fountains are timed with music, and its fountain jets in the immediate background shoot water 500ft high.

The indoor ski resort inside the Mall of the Emirates.

A gold-plated Bentley parked outside the Dubai Mall. This was just one exotic car among many found around the area.

Dubai police car.

Souks and Markets

I took the metro train to Al Hamriya district, one of the only remaining traditional sections of Dubai. Upon arrival, I took the traditional abras, a small water taxi, down Dubai Creek to Deira for 1 Duram, or 27 cents. The old districts of Dubai are still very much alive and buzzing with activity. The streets are lined with shops and cafes. Many of the shop-keepers stand near the the doorway of their shops trying to entice passers-by to come into their shop.

The architecture of the traditional districts of Dubai are very different from the tall, ultra-modern buildings of the new Dubai. In fact, it did not feel like Dubai at all, at least from the perspective of a Westerner who only hears about, and sees pictures of the new Dubai in the media. Traditional Dubai has a much more middle-eastern feel to it. It is a very different experience from the new Dubai, and is well worth the time experience.

The traditional souks, or markets, in the old districts of Dubai offer just about every type of consumer item available. Everything from tourist-trap souvenirs to high-definition plasma displays, the souk markets have them.

The souks in Dubai differ from the bazaars in places like Istanbul or Ashgabat in that on the whole, the shop keepers are far more aggressive in trying to get customers to open their wallets. Walking through the narrow corridors of the souks can feel like a run through the gauntlet. For example, if a shop keeper is selling scarves or head-dresses, they will try to put it your head or around your neck. The phrase, "no thank you," is not in their lexicon.

Another less bold, but forward example, are shop keepers that sell watches or other types of jewelry. Walking along the corridors, expect to have at least a half-dozen shop keepers approach you, the follow you while tapping their wrists, indicating that they sell watches. As you keep walking, they will often shoot off a laundry list of other items they sell, hoping to catch your interest.

At times, walking through the souks can invoke feeling of claustrophobia, depending on one's particular mood or personality. However, if you are in the market for something, or an item catches you interest, opportunities for favorable deals are possible. Like in other foreign cities, if your home currency is stronger, always bargain in local currency; insist on the price of an item in Duram, UAE's currency. Be prepared to do calculations in your head or on a calculator. The shop keeper will usually name a very high price in Duram. For example, one shop keeper tried to sell me a souvenir tee-shirt for 120 Duram, roughly $32! We refused, and bargained down to 40 Duram, approximately $11. Don't hesitate to walk away if the price is not favorable. More than likely, the shop keeper will meet your demand. If not, there will be several dozen more shops selling similar items.

Besides the traditional souks, walking down the streets of Deira presented innumerable shopping choices. The streets are lined with shops of every description, from fabrics to high-end electronics. It was not uncommon to have shop keepers beckon us into their shop urging us to take a look. Like the souks, most of these shop keepers are eager to haggle.

The winding streets of old Dubai are lined with shops and cafes, and were buzzing with activity.

One of the many winding streets of old Dubai. Getting around old Dubai can be a little daunting; there are very few signs that give a tourist an indication of where they are, or where they are heading. But I got around eventually, and had a great experience doing it.

Traffic jams are not an uncommon sight in old Dubai.

The main throughway of the Gold Souk, which has many jewelry shops.

One of the many narrow corridors of the Gold Souk. I referred to it as "running the gauntlet," because all the eager shop keepers on both sides are highly aggressive in trying to attract your attention, and your money, all at once. They are not aggressive in a threatening way, but it can be overwhelming. The flip side is, if there is something you want, they are eager to haggle.

Another shot of the Gold Souk and its many jewelry shops.

Fresh fruits and vegetables for sale along the outer corridors of the Dubai Deira Fish Souk.

Showing of their catch.

Another fish market working, realizing I had a camera, wanted me to take his picture.

These workers implored me to take their picture, posing with their catch of the day. More fish market workers were behind me wanting pictures. At one point, I was swarmed and surrounding by them, making me uneasy. But, when all was said and done, they just wanted their pictures taken.

Dining

While there is nothing inherently wrong with them, I never thought much of American chain-restaurants. Many of them serve good quality food, on a fairly consistent basis, but the experience often felt "routine." Ironically, after eight months of not having access to American chain restaurants, I am not ashamed to admit that I looked forward to dining at all the American chain-restaurants in Dubai.

The first was dinner at McDonalds immediately after landing in Dubai around 8:30pm. I rarely ate McDonalds in the United States; at one point I went six years without eating there. But after eight months in Ashgabat, I craved McDonalds food. The menu featured several items that presumably appeal to local tastes, but for the most part, the menu was familiar - and the food was delicious!

Another notable American chain restaurant I dinned at was Texas Roadhouse. Nearly everything about it was the same as in any Texas Roadhouse in the United States. The hostess seating me grabbed a basket of fresh rolls with the same butter, the decor featured the same themes, and country music competed with the sounds of conversation. The similarity was enough that if it were not for a few subtle differences, I likely would have forgot that I was 7,000 miles from home, in a culture very different from my own. The menu was the fist give-away. The first menu I pulled from the horseshoe rack on the wall had the same exact logo and layout, with one difference - it was written in Arabic. Fortunately for me, that also had English menus as well. Then there was the country music again. It continued playing as I ate, but then, it stopped suddenly; the Muslim call to prayer that plays throughout the mall could be heard clearly in the restaurant. There was a 2-3 minute pause after the call-to-prayer ended, then suddenly, the country music resumed as if nothing happened.

The Texas Roadhouse was just like any in the United States: same atmosphere, delicious food, but a few subtle differences. (Yes, they did have English menus)

The Mall of Dubai has an Ihop restaurant, which I had to dine there at least once for breakfast. Everything was remarkably similar to Ihop restaurants in the United States: the decor, great breakfast food, and poor service.

The view from Ihop's dining patio.

Aside from the variety of American chain restaurants, Dubai also has a dizzying selection of other dining establishments throughout the city. Dining establishments range from sidewalk cafes to exclusive resort restaurants. There is something for every budget, taste, and situation.