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Three Days in Tbilisi, Georgia

Established in 479 A.D, the 1,500 year-old city of Tbilisi is an urban tourist's paradise, offering a taste of Georgian culture, history, and vibrant nightlife.

Strategically situated in the in the central Caucasus region, Tbilisi is sometimes considered a gateway between eastern Europe and western Asia. As a result, Tbilisi experienced a turbulent history, often the target of rivals and ambitious empires. Ancient, medieval, and modern empires gained control of Tbilisi at various points in the city's history, resulting in an unique and fascinating urban cultural landscape.

Touring modern-day Tbilisi was an exiting experience.  The city is always bustling with activity, especially at night. During our brief tour, we tried several traditional Georgian dishes, visited Old Town, took a night stroll along Shota Rustavelli Avenue, and walked the grounds of Holy Trinity Cathedral.

A dramatic view of Tbilisi from Narikala fortress. Narikala fortress can be reached either by climbing the staircase up the foothill, or take the cable car for 2 Lira ($0.87) per person.

Day Hike in the Canyons of the Kopet Dag Moutains, Turkmenistan

The canyon hike within the foothills of the Kopet Dag Mountains is one of many potential adventures we took advantage of in Turkmenistan. It was also another opportunity to experience Turkmenistan's unique natural beauty.

Our "road" to the start of the river walk. We drove in the shallow stream for about 15 minutes before being dropped off, to hike the remaining 3-4km to narrow canyon.

At the start of the hike, we were flanked by mountains and cliffs on each side of the stream, but there was still a significant divide between them. In the background, a local continued to drive his minivan through the water, with his family, to a camping spot farther up stream.

Day-Trip to the Nader Shah Fortress, Turkmenistan

The Nader Shah Fortress ruins is situated about two hours east of Ashgabat. The fortress was constructed during the reign of Nadir Shah (1736-1747 AD), founder of the Afsharid Dynasty, and leader of a vast but brief Persian empire in Central Asia.

The fortress complex is in good condition; most of the walls, guard towers, and surrounding moat are intact. Within the walls, the outlines of the road system can still be seen. At the center of the fortress stands the ruins of the palace complex. About 500 feet from the fortress stands two ruined structures, one with half its dome roof still intact. It is not known what purpose they served.

Nader Shah is often referred to as the "second Alexander the Great," or the "Napoleon of Persia," due to his stunning successes on the battlefield. The massive Nader Shah fortress complex stands as a testament to his legacy, and Persian military might from days past.

The fortress is designed in a square pattern. This is one of the four walls which we entered the fortress.

A view of the eastern wall, facing south, from on top of one of the guard towers.

Ancient Ruins of Abiwert and Abandon Village of Murche; Turkmenistan, Central Asia

Since returning to Turkmenistan following summer break, I visited two ancient ruins during two back-to-back weekends. For the first trip, I visited the ancient ruins of Abiwert, located about 2 hours east of Ashgabat. Like the ruins of Merv, the site of Abiwert is well preserved. Many of the structures still have walls standing, and the fortress, with its defensive moat, is still clearly visible. The ancient town's grid-pattern development is also evident.

I took a second trip to the abandon village of Murche, about 2 hours west of Ashgabat, situated along the foothills of the Kopet Dag Mountains. Turkmens occupied the village until 1960. Following the completion of a canal a few kilometers away, the people abandon the village for a new site closer to the canal, also called Murche. Later in the day, I also had the good fortune of being taken to the Mausoleum of Zengi Baba, dating from the 13th or 14th century. Zengi Baba was the patron of cattle breeders, dating back to the pre-Islamic Zoroastrian era. While there, several Turkmen showed us inside, and allowed us to witness one of their prayer sessions. A few kilometers away, I made on last stop to the village of Sunche, to tour an ancient fort and water-mill.

Ruins of Abiwert

A view along the highway leading to the Abiwert ruins.

The ruins of Abiwert. The place has a sort of strange calm about it, especially when thinking that thousands of people once called this place home.

Weekend Excursion to the Painted Canyon; Western Turkmenistan

The painted canyon, situated in northwestern Turkmenistan, is the breath-taking result of millions of years of geological forces at work. Traveling to the painted canyon was a fun and fascinating experience. 

We took a 45 minute flight from Ashgabat to the city of Turkmenbashi, situated along the Caspian Sea. From there, our driver and guide picked us up. First, we stopped at the local bazaar in town to buy food and water for the overnight trip, then we began our four and a half hour drive through the desert to reach the painted canyon.

We made our way along the desert road. Our driver had to constantly dodge huge ruts and holes in the road, as well as navigate around whole sections of completely decayed road. In some cases, the road was completely buried under sand dunes.

Along the way, we stopped at a pilgrimage were Turkmen rest during their travels, saw wild camels and horses, and camped overnight at the painted canyon. I looked on in wonder at the massive painted canyon, and enjoyed chicken shashlik and hot tea. As a bonus, I had the chance to view the milky way galaxy in the early morning hours before sunrise, made possible by the fact there was no source of light in any direction.

Painted canyon region relative to Turkmenistan.

Painted canyon region relative to Central Asia.

The road ahead. Most the road was in terrible condition. It was not uncommon for large segments of the road to be completely deteriorated. In other areas, nature reclaimed the road.

Seit Djemaletdin Medieval Mosque Ruins (Annau Mosque); Anau, Turkmenistan

During the Timurid Dynasty (15th–16th centuries A.D.), governor-general Abu Kasim Baber ordered the construction of the Seit Djemaletdin Mosque between 1446 and 1457, within the remains of an ancient Parthian fortress.

Situated about 9 miles (15km) south east of modern Ashgabat, the mosque was part of a large religious complex, which included a funeral hall, a cloister for Sufi monks, and a madrasa (religious school).

The mosque was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1948. However, the ruins are still considered a functioning mosque. Turkmens from the surrounding area continue to visit the mosque in significant numbers to pray, and perform ceremonies unique to Turkmen Muslims.

The Seit Djemaletdin Mosque is situated on top of an ancient Parthian era fortress. The site and the surrounding area has been occupied for the last 7,000 years. As I walked along the paths, numerous pottery shards left over the ages were found.

The remains of the two remaining pillars that used to support a large dome above where the people are standing. Much of the structure had still been intact until a devastating earthquake occurred in 1948. In spite of the extensive damage, Turkmens still visit the ruined mosque to pray and have feasts at the bottom of the hill behind it.

Six Days in Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Located along the eastern edge of the Arabian peninsula, Dubai is a city of international importance. The city receives much media attention and hype; my impression of Dubai during my six-day stay is that the international hype is well deserved. From its ultra-modern skyline with all the amenities of the 21st century in the newer sections, to older, more traditional districts, Dubai truly is an international city.

Dubai and the surrounding region.

Dubai in relation to the wider Middle East.

Look and Feel of Dubai

One aspect of Dubai that stood out to me almost immediately was the large number of expatriates throughout the city. Emiratis make up a small minority of Dubai's population. The vast majority of shops and restaurants are staffed by Filipinos, Malaysians, and Indians, the later making up approximately 51% of Dubai's population. There is also a large population of people from Europe and the United States. Walking through the streets and malls, and dining at restaurants, I heard a bewildering number of languages being spoken. It was not uncommon to see expatriates in their distinctive national dress. Together, these demographic characteristics gave Dubai a very cosmopolitan feel.

In many ways, Dubai truly is a 21st century city. While the earliest recorded settlement of the city dates from the late 1700s, and traditional sections of the city are still full of life, many other sections have been developed within the last 10-15 years. The variety of modern architecture is astounding. Walking among the varied skyscrapers, I was given the impression that architects are encouraged to test the limits of imagination and design.

The first thing that struck me about Dubai was its diverse and ultra-modern skyline.

The Day-to-Day as a Customer in Ashgabat

With a break in the frigid weather, my wife and I decided to research more opportunities to tour Turkmenistan outside the city limits of Ashgabat, and in neighboring provinces. We contacted a local tour agency, and inquired about prices. After shifting prices on us several times, including services we did not ask for, and referred to as "complementary," but with a charge, we declined to work with them any further. A few days later, that same tour agency solicited my workplace advertising free tours. After speaking to the office coordinator, she received clarification from the tour agency: it was free to look at the tour agency's advertisement! That's right, we could browse through their brochure free of charge!

We went shopping at the Ministry of Textiles to find "Turkmenistan" t-shirts for ourselves, as well as family and friends. We walked into a clothing store, which had walls lined with neatly folded t-shirts and other outer-wear. My wife proceeded to pick through the clothes, looking for the right design and color. A few minutes later, a very concerned employee approached her and asked "speak English?" After replying in the affirmative, the employee told her that she could not touch any of the folded clothes, which made up about 75% of the visible inventory. Instead, we could only look through the clothes hanging on racks, or what the employee brought out for us to look at upon request. Later, without any warning, all the lights in the building shut off, and the store attendant informed us that the shops were closed.

I was at a grocery store one weekend, when I noticed chocolate milk drinks stored in what looked like a soft-pretzel warmer. Mildly intrigued with heated chocolate milk drinks in a pretzel-warming machine, I decided to take a picture with my phone. Immediately after, a young female employee came up behind me sternly saying "DELETE!", "DELETE!" At first, I was a little stunned and amused. When I realized she was very serious, I showed her my phone lock screen and replied "deleted, see?" She looked at me with the most scornful face she could muster, and I walked away and checked out. Perhaps they were afraid I might steal their top-secret chocolate milk-warming technology.

Dining at restaurants can sometimes be an awkward experience. It is not uncommon when dining at a restaurant to have the entire wait-staff starring at you while you eat. For example, my wife and I dined at a restaurant recently with three servers. Having finished their meals, the only other patrons left the restaurant, leaving us as the only patrons in the dining room. One waitress stood "at attention," right next to our table, starring at us. On the other side of the dining room, two servers stood "at attention," like soldiers on sentry duty, staring at us. I swear, I don't think they blinked once. While this was probably the most blatant incident so far, such over-the-top "service" is not uncommon. Although, it is ironic that we often have to wait 10-15 minutes for the bill after asking for it - more than once.

First Day-Hike in Turkmenistan

After waiting for the simmering 110º F summer and early fall temperatures to subside, and finding time between a busy work schedule and travel, I finally had my first opportunity to go hiking in Turkmenistan.

I quickly learned that with rare exception, if one wants to go hiking in Turkmenistan, they simply make their own trails. A small group of fellow expats and myself drove out of the city of Ashgabat, and toward the Kopet Dag Mountains, searching for a suitable spot to park the cars and begin hiking. After driving for about one hour, we pulled off the side of the road, found a small path made years of grazing sheep, and began our hike. Before long, we ventured off the sheep trails and began exploring whatever areas look interesting, making our own routes as we progressed.

Our "route" that we made up as we went along including some rock-scrambling down into a valley below. Our hike also including a fare amount of climbing as well.

Köw Ata Underground Lake, Turkmenistan

Köw Ata underground lake is located at the foot of a mountain, about  two hours Northwest of Ashgabat. Located approximately 235 ft underground, and filled with high concentrations of sulfur, salts and other minerals, Köw Ata is the closest equivalent to a thermal spa in Turkmenistan. The average water temperature is 95º F. Köw Ata underground lake is also a protected home for the largest known colony of bats in Central Asia.

After paying the "American price" of 40 Manat, or approximately $14 (the price for Turkmen citizens is 3 Manat - $1.05), I descended into the cave, making my way to the underground lake. As I approached the lake, the temperature began to increase from the hot vapors. The air began to take on a sharp sulfuric smell. At the first the smell was a bit off-putting, giving the impression of filth, but I got used to it relatively quick. At first, the water appeared murky due to the high concentration of dissolved minerals. But once up close, the water is very clean.

The stairs led directly into the water, with a rock ledge about 4 feet underwater for the first 6 feet out. Then suddenly, the rock ledge ends with a 90º drop. Being in a dimly lit cave and having the bottom go out under my feet in a thermal lake was a little daunting, but I got used to it quickly.

Swimming 200+ feet underground is a little strange at first, it is a feeling that is difficult to describe in words. But is was an experience worth setting aside initial inhibitions.

The entrance into the underground lake, complete with Soviet-era sculptures.

The Carpet Museum; Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

The Turkmen people have a long, rich history of weaving some of the finest quality, beautiful carpets in the world. The Carpet Museum, located in the heart of Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, displays some of Turkmenistan's finest carpets over the span of centuries.The carpets are housed in a relatively new building, embellished with a marble facade, large gold entrance doors, and marble floors, with plain white walls to maintain focus on the carpets on display. Overall, the museum is well laid out and ideally lit to highlight the beautiful carpets and other woven fabrics associated with traditional Turkmen culture.The museum is also the central location that foreigners wishing to take carpet out Turkmenistan must report to obtain official papers and to pay assessed taxes.

The carpet museum admission is much more expensive for foreigners, especially for Americans. As of this writing, admission was 36 Manat per person ($12.67). The museum also charges a fee per picture taken. When we arrived, we were told the fee per picture was 12 Manat ($4.22). Later, another staff told us that no pictures were allowed, which we protested, and then were given re-permission to take pictures. Another staff member told us 5 Manat. Shortly thereafter, the original staff member that collect our admission charged the original quoted price of 12 Manat per picture.

Traditionally, the Turkmen people were nomadic. Carpets were an efficient, transportable way to furnish their movable homes called yurts, such as the model in the background. The Turkmens also used their distinctive carpet weaving techniques to make other items of use, such as saddle covers, bags, and other useful items.

In and Around Selçuk, Şirince, Pamukkale, and Hierapolis; Turkey

Natural wonders and ancient ruins are among the primary motivators to visit the Turkish peninsula. However, the inhabited towns that lay near them are also worth visiting to catch a glimpse of everyday life.

Towns visited included Selçuk, just outside the ancient ruins of Ephesus; Şirince, a Greek enclave continuously settled since the 15th century; and Pamukkale, located just outside the ancient ruins of Hieropolis.

Getting to and from these destinations required more planning, and in some cases, the ability to let go of some of our inhibitions then what we were otherwise used to. After a one night layover in Istanbul, we took a domestic flight to Izmir, which was much cheaper than flying directly there from out of country, even with a hotel charge for one night.

Selçuk

Once we landed in Izmir, travel became more challenging. The staff around the Izmir airport were generally unfriendly and did not want to help. It is important to note that the Izmir airport is crawling with tour agents who are very eager to help travelers for a hefty fee. They are very pushy, and will say just about anything to get travelers in the bus and committed with payment. We avoided them, and fortunately, a local traveler helped us translate with a coach bus driver where we needed to go.

After riding the coach bus to the outer region of Izmir, we had to hurry to the "bus stop," which was nothing more than other other people standing along the street in front of a market. Luckily, before the passing of time would allow doubt to sink in, a small white minibus with a handmade sign labeled "Selçuk" rolled up beeping his horn. The driver, without asking anything, just grabbed our luggage, threw in the back of the minibus, and shewed us into the minibus.

For 6 Turkish Lira a person ($3), we rode the jam-packed minibus for about one hour to the bus station in downtown Selçuk. At the bus station, one can find taxi services, local minibuses, and coach buses for longer distance travel in Turkey.

A Traditional Turkish breakfast. It included an assortment of cheeses, hard-boiled eggs, breads, olives, honey with butter, and pastry.

The Ruins of Ancient Ephesus; Selçuk, Turkey

The site of Ephesus had been occupied since ca. 6,000 BC. The ancient site viewed today was founded about c. 300 BC. Strategically located near near the Aegean Sea, Ephesus grew and prospered for over a thousand of years. At its peak, Ephesus supported a population of about 200,000, and served as the provincial capital of Roman Asia. Throughout its history, Ephesians experienced prominence and prosperity as an independent city-state, as well as part of great empires including the Persian Achaemenid Empire, the Hellenic (Greek) empires of Athens and Alexander the Great,  the Roman Empire, and Byzantine Empire.

The city's greatest asset and key to its wealth, the harbor, was also its weakness. While part of the Byzantine Empire, Ephesus's harbor began to fill with silt, making it increasingly difficult for mariners to navigate and trade. By the time the Seljuk Turks conquered the region in the early 14th century AD, Ephesus was reduced to a small village, its greatness mostly forgotten by remaining locals. Finally, Ephesus was completely abandoned during the 15th century.

Walking along Ephesus's main avenues, the cultural and architectural legacies of the Hellenes (Greeks), Romans, and Byzantines are clearly visible throughout the site. Walking among the ruins, one can imagine the city in its heyday, with thousands of people bustling among the grand temples, amphitheaters, markets, and apartment houses. Few places can boast the cultural, architectural, and religious legacies of so many great civilizations on display in such a small geographic era.

Hellenic (Greek) and Roman Era Ruins

The ruins of a colonnade along the Avenue of the Curates, which used to be a part of a much larger, roofed structure.

Unexpected Opportunities of Being an Expatriate

Living and working as an expatriate is an opportunity in itself. From time to time however, I have learned that other unexpected opportunities present themselves that make expat living even more a worthwhile experience.

Recently, I received an invitation for Thanksgiving dinner at the chief U.S. Ambassador's residence. A few days later, my wife received an invitation from the chief ambassador of the United Arab Emirates for us to dine at the U.A.E. embassy, celebrating the nation's 42nd anniversary.

The U.S. Ambassador served us a traditional Thanksgiving feast, made more savory by the fact that we live in Turkmenistan. The meal including delicious turkey imported from Germany, ham, stuffing, sweet potato casserole, green beans, steamed spinach, salad, cranberry sauce, and bread.  We all enjoyed ourselves, and were very thankful for the ambassador opening up his residence to us and providing us with a taste of home.

The United Arab Emirates (UAE) entered its 42nd year of united independence. To commemorate the event, the chief ambassador of the UAE hosted an evening celebration at the UAE embassy in Ashgabat. For myself, the highlight of the evening was having the pleasure of meeting the chief ambassador of the UAE. Representatives from many nations also attended. The embassy  was lavishly decorated inside and out. Throughout the embassy, works of art and other displays depicted the UAE's historical and cultural heritage. The dinning tables had fresh mangoes, assorted breads, and deserts awaiting guests. The chairs were covered in a rich red fabric, with gold embroidered falcons, the UAE's national seal. For dinner, a wide variety of delicious ethnic dishes were available. While dining, women and girls donning fine traditional dress continually went among the tables, passing out assorted chocolates and other sweets.

We had the chance to pose with one of two falcon handlers at the UAE reception. The falcon is used as the UAE's national seal.

A gift we received from the UAE ambassador. The plaque includes silver symbols of the UAE, a UAE coin collection, and sand art representing traditional desert life; it is made from sand from within the boundaries of the UAE.

Five Days in Istanbul, Turkey

Strategically located between the Black Sea to the northeast, and the Sea of Marmara to the west, which opens up into the wider Mediterranean, Istanbul is a thriving urban center with a rich history dating back to the Roman imperial era.

Istanbul, known as Constantinople before 1453, served as the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire until the collapse of the Western Roman Empire in 476. After the fall of Rome, Constantinople continued to thrive as the capital of the Byzantine Empire for the next 1,000 years until being conquered by the Ottomans in 1453. After 1453, Constantinople was renamed Istanbul, and served as the capital of the Ottoman Empire for the next 465 years until its collapse in 1918.

Since 1923, Istanbul no longer serves as the center of a great empire, but Istanbul continues to its tradition as a thriving commercial and cultural center.

During my five-day tour of this legendary city, I toured the great bazaars, including the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar; walked the historic grounds where the hippodrome once stood, which hosted chariot races in front of 100,000 spectators during the Byzantine era; looked in admiration at the beautifully decorated mosques; and stood in awe at the massive historic and architectural wonder, the Hagia Sofia.

Preparing to land in Istanbul, the city's strategic importance throughout its history is apparent. The land mass to the bottom right is Asia, the land mass to the top left is Europe.

Overnight Excursion to the Fire Crater, a.k.a "Hell's Gate," Karakum Desert, Turkmenistan

Situated approximately 260 km north of Ashgabat in the heart of the Karakum Desert is the fire crater, also known as "hell's gate."

The crater resulted from a cave-in during a natural gas drilling operation in 1971. At the time, those at the site believed that they could burn off the poisonous gas in a few days by lighting it on fire. Instead, they exposed and set fire to a huge natural gas reservoir, turning the site into a massive, raging fire pit that has been burning for over 40 years.

Today, few signs remain suggesting that the fire crater was a drilling site. Instead, one sees a massive fire pit in the middle of a vast, open desert. A few fellow tourists, the raging flames, and the intense waves of heat between high cold winds seem to be the only life for as far as the eye can see. A few dozen feet beyond the fire crater, nothing is visible in the pitch black of night, but occasionally, packs of desert foxes can be heard calling out to each other. I can definitely say that the fire crater earns its nickname, "Hell's Gate," and is one of the strangest sites I have visited to date.

Soon after leaving the city limits of Ashgabat, the highway narrowed, and traffic dissipated as we drove into the Karakum Desert. Occasionally, we passed small villages, and domestic animals such as these cows crossing the highway was not uncommon.

Cable Car Ride into the Foothills of the Kopet Dag Mountains

I recently took the cable car up into the foothills of the Kopet Dag Mountains. The cable cars can be accessed at the bottom of the foothills, which rise to the terminal approximately 3,000 feet up the side of the mountain.

As the car climbed uphill, the winds increased and the air became increasingly cool. After 20 minutes riding uphill, the terminal grounds offered great views of the Kopet Dag Mountain range and the entire city of Ashgabat.

Relative Field of View

The foothills of the Kopet Dag Mountains facing East.

Weekend Trip to Mary, Turkmenistan and Ancient Merv

I had the opportunity to visit with a Turkmen family in Mary, Turkmenistan. For a weekend, I was treated to Turkmen hospitality, renown in Central Asia, and briefly experienced traditional Turkmen living. My hosts took me to the local bazaar, where I immersed myself in a traditional marketplace setting.

Before boarding a plane back to Ashgabat, I toured the ancient city ruins of Merv, once an important political and economic center along the famous Silk Roads.

My hosts, a local Turkmen family, live in the town of Murgab, just outside the city of Mary (Mer-ree). After being picked up from the airport, I was invited for tea at the home of my host's long-time family friend. From there, I arrived at my host's home, where a lavish feast awaited. With the exception of cabinetry to store items, traditional Turkmen homes do not have furniture. Instead colorful rugs with a variety of intricate designs cover the floors of every room of the house. The feast was laid out upon a special mat covering the center of the rugs. Upon the serving mat, bowls of fresh fruit, pastry trays, fresh baked bread, chicken shashlyk, soup, and an assortment of beverages awaited. Myself and fellow guests took our place upon the rugs and enjoyed the food until we could stuff ourselves no further.

After an hour of enjoying the cool evening breeze on the patio, also lined with Turkmen rugs, myself and the other guests returned to the dinning area. Upon entering, there was no indication that dinner was served there, or that it was a dinning area at all. Our hosts removed the food, and rolled up the serving mat. In its place, was a series of sleeping mats upon the rugs for us to turn in for the night.

Flying into Mary, Turkmenistan. Mary is situated on an oasis, supporting urban development since ancient times to the present. In the far background, the abrupt dividing line between oasis and desert is clearly visible.

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan: The First Month

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, lies in an oasis north of the Kopet Dag Mountains, and at the edge of the Kara Kum Desert.

Originally established as a village outpost by the Russian army in 1881, Ashgabat is a relatively young city for the region. The city was founded along important caravan routs, and on the Transcaspian railway, allowing Ashgabat to grow into a major city.

The city served as the capital of Turkmenistan, USSR from 1924 until 1990. Following the country's independence in 1991, Ashgabat became the capital of independent Turkmenistan.

Ashgabat lies just north of the Kopet Dag Mountains, and at the southern edge of the Kara Kum Desert.

Relative location of Ashgabat.

Environment in Ashgabat

Turkmenistan is mostly desert, with very little moisture. The air is very dry, and often dusty.

During the long summer months, temperatures average 95 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit.  Under such temperatures, walking outside for just 15 minutes will result in the feeling of exhaustion and dehydration. Because of this, locals mostly go outside during the late afternoon and evening hours, when the temperatures become much more mild.

Ashgabat sits at the edge of the Karakum Desert, one of the largest and harshest deserts in the world. The flat terrain in the foreground is in a natural state. The pine trees in the immediate background are not native to the environment. In the background, the Kopet Dag Mountains tower above the landscape. The air is colored light tan from the dust. (If you look closely, I can be seen walking home from a long day at work)